M S DHABHA

The local eating place is a dhaba. A small eatery, all remarkably the same, producing fresh and tasty food.  There is the main cook, the bread maker, servers and those that clean. M S Dhabha Pure Veg is on a busy intersection in Paharganj. The store on the corner, itself, specialises in curd and lassi. This 'hole in the wall' is three metres by ten and seats twenty. The shop front is where the cooking occurs. On one side the tandoor and the other the kitchen with just enough space for patrons to get through. Two exhaust fans over both cooking areas exhaust the direct heat. The shopfront is safeguarded by a roller door yet there is a sixty cm open ventilation space above that vents the rising heat. The floor and walls are covered in marble tiles, easy to hose out and squeegee at the end of the night.

The decor is sparse. In prime place beside the hand wash basin, in front of the cook/owner, is the deity temple box. Within, a small statue and several framed images of gods. The incense tray is well used with evidence of an industrial strength dhoop roll burned to ashes. The evil spirits would have choked on the smoke, so a certainty that none dare venture here.

The tandoor stands a metre high and radiates intense heat. The exterior is metal, interior a clay. The base is filled with gleaming orange coke. Beside is a small table used for making the dough and rolling out either chapati, naan or paratha. A cloth wrapped semi circular hand pad is used for placing the dough in the tandoor and two long prongs used to retrieve from the wall, baked to perfection. The bread maker is skilled and deft at producing quantities of bread on demand. Hanging above the table are whole sheets of newspaper speared on a metal hook; wrapping for takeaway.

The kitchen occupies about one and a half metres of space jutting into the entrance with a length of two metres. It is stainless steel and shows its age. On the street end the bench becomes an L shape and here the main gas burner sits. The cook looks out, in prime position. Atop the bench are seven very large pots, five filled with hot sauces and stocks, to make the variety on the menu, one filled with rice and the other hot water. In front of these sits an array of smaller containers filled with spice. Under the bench, vegetables and pulses have been prepared and are with easy reach. Beside the kitchen entrance is a red esky, where the butter, paneer and curd are stored on ice. Within this cooking area also sits the gas bottle. Hanging on the edge of the bench are small plastic bags and string which forms the takeaway option plus carry bags.

It is a no frills affair and the main client base consists of locals or Indians. This is fast food at its tastiest and best. A balanced meal affordable by most. The menu is limited but not without a range. A two page menu, with a column for paneer based dishes, one for breads, another for vegetables, one for rice options with a choice of thali from basic thru to special, plus drinks. Hot drinks slow up the kitchen and are sourced from the chaiwala. One of the best aspects of this dhabha is they serve, for most of the dishes, half plate options. This allows the individual to have choice. The serves are generous. The half plate is what is often served as a main in restaurants at home. The plate of plain rice, single serve, is far too much for me. 

On arrival a plate of 'salad' and water jug arrives. The salad consists of chopped radish and onions. On the table is a plate of green chilies for those who like it hot, and a small bowl of salt or namak. A menu, pad and pen arrive for you to write the order, delivered back to the cook. No errors here.  He then, with one deep, wide frypan, brings together the order. It is freshly cooked, dish by dish, steaming hot, the pan cleaned with boiling water between dishes. I don't think the pan would cool even once during mealtimes. Stainless steel spoons quickly add the spices, sauces, vegetables or paneer, mixing all together. The bread maker and cook work in unison so all items arrive at the table close together. Butter is generously dolloped into each dish as it makes its way out, for the diner to mix. 

It is fascinating watching the process. It is endless yet at no time is concentration lost even with the humour, laughter and chat between all. The smells of fresh spices hitting the pan is mouth watering. The only problem is you want to try everything. Yet that comes with repeat visits. 

In walking down the street you would not second look these establishments. There is no competing facade to attract, just honest fare and hard workers.